More done to the 67′ the past few days…

Got the old inline 6 and T5 pulled out of the 67′ yesterday (Christmas Eve). Never thought I’d be so happy to pull the engine and transmission for what I believe to be the 7th (yes really) time. It was a great engine for what it was, and was to a point fun to see what I could do to add performance and reliability, however I wish that I would have instead spent the money towards putting a 302 in it. I have one I am working on to put in, however if I would have put the “performance” mod money towards it, I’d be much further!

Anyways, with the engine and transmission out, I should be able to roll the Mustang around much easier, and i’ll be able to get in the engine bay to “refresh” it, be able to replace the battery apron since it is rotted out from sulphuric acid from the years of batteries in it, etc. I am almost finished with the lower cowl “repair”, just a small triangle to weld in and grind down the rest of the weld I made. From here i’ll be able to move onto the floor pans. I need to remove the gas tank and fuel line coming from the tank, and then I will be able to use my new Plasma Cutter! The plan is to start on the drivers side, remove the floor pan, fix the frame rail (mainly pound out the metal so that it is square again, coat the inside with Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator, and clean the outside in preparations for the Subframe Connectors (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEE-3040). Then I will weld in the new floor pan and move onto the passenger side repeating what I have done for the drivers side. Once both pans are in, I’ll move onto dropping the rear end and getting the subframe connectors welded in since I have to notch out the new floor pans. Once those are in….

So just a thought out loud, now that the engine is out, and soon the tank will be out and rear end, maybe I should go ahead and make a tip over jig for it and do a 360* restoration on it instead of a 180… This will set back any sort of timeline I may have had, but I rather do it right then to rush it. This would also make it easier to install the subframe connectors and any other sort of bottom-of-car modifications or replacements. This would allow me to install a passenger side torque box and replace the driver side if it needs it. Also, when finished with the bottom, I could rotate it 180* and be able to do body work to the roof. Take off the paint, do any metal work, spray a body filler and get it nice and smooth while it is easier to work on then having to lean over it. And while on the bottom, I can get it prepped and apply a good underliner to keep it in pristine condition for years to come!

New fuel tanks for the 67 and 73

I had already wanted to replace the fuel tank in the 67′, and when I get to the 73′, it will need one as well. Instead of a stock tank, I will be going the way of:

67′:  http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=319/category_id=135/mode=prod/prd319.htm

73′: http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=327/category_id=135/mode=prod/prd327.htm

Why not go for a good tank that can have a fuel pump!

Different brakes for the 67′

When I upgraded the 67 to have front disc brakes, I found a set of 72′ Mustang disc. Well, with the 73′ I just bought, the PO removed the discs and threw on drums. Didn’t connect them up or anything, the one tie rod doesn’t even have a nut on it! Instead of buying new brakes for it, I am considering doing the Cobra brakes swap on the 67 and putting the 72 brake setup on the 73. Either that, or I will leave the drum setup on the 73 and do the Cobra conversion on it… decisions decisions…

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/mod-custom-forum/663300-what-brakes.html

$242 – Retrofit Kit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DISC-BRAKE-conversion-Fits-2005-14-Mustang-GT-Brakes-on-65-73-Mustang-Cougar-/111304104879

$175 – Calipers: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-S4928A-Performance-Caliper/dp/B00DGRRYIU
$75 – Discs: http://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-AR8171XPR-Drilled-Slotted/dp/B007KFQ976
Brake Pads:
Hoses:

Some interesting posts and info on 73′ upgrades/replacements

Moving closer to welding day. I read my own thread again to make sure someone has not already suggested the diameter of the holes for plug welding. I can’t find this information. Should I drill/punch the pan with 1/4″, 5/16″ or 3/8″ holes for plug welding?
On the floor structural parts frame etc 5/16″
or use http://www.harborfreight.com/air-punch-flange-tool-1110.html
Sheet metal (door skins, quarter panel rain gutter, etc )1/4″ is fine

If you get down to lower convertible pans (the ones that the torque plate bolts to) mine were ate up. I got 1965-70 pans and modified them to our specs. Mostly for the emergency brake cable routing purposes. Took about an hour to modify both. Came out great.

ooking good ! You know you can buy the upper outer part of the rear torque box..Listed as 65-70 Plate rear upper torque box..It’s what I used on the passenger side..wish I would have known before I made the drivers side. Almost perfect fit very little modification needed.



Other parts I’ll at some point need to look into for the 73′

Replacement Sheetmetal list for 73′

Since most of the floor is rusted away along with most of the sheet metal on parts, I figured I should start a list of what I will eventually need. Without first removing the panels, I will not know whether I need larger (if available panels) or not. Some panels I also might not need, but I will atleast have a comprehensive list when I am ready.

New car!

Just a few days ago I found and bought a 1973 Mustang Convertible. It’s in rough shape, but like AutoRestomod say, “it’s never a problem, it’s always a project!” It should be fun really breaking it down and replacing most of the sheet metal, and when finished have one of my favorite style Mustangs, a 73′! Before heading into work, I went ahead and checked a few things on it now that it is completely mine, titled and everything. The power top works great! Granted it’s only the frame right now… The turn signals work, the front running lights work (head lights don’t, didn’t have time to diag) the engine turns over, and if you put some gas in the carb will start. Before messing with the light switch, the one interior light that I could see would come on with the door open. So onto the options/specs of it!

  • 351 Cleveland
  • FMX transmission (X code on data plate)
  • 9″ Rear end with 2.75 gears (Axle code 2)
  • Gold Glow (Color code 6F on data plate, currently painted a dull yellow)
  • Black Knitted Vinyl (CA trim code on data plate, currently has no interior!)
  • Body: 76D
  • Color: 6F
  • Trim: CA
  • Trans: X
  • Axle: 2
  • DSO: 13

Warranty Number: 3F03H122861

Year: 3 1973 
Plant: F Dearborn, MI 
Body Series: 03 Convertible 
Engine: H 351 2v V8 
Unit: 122861 122861 



Miscellaneous Vehicle Data

Body: 76D Convertible 
Color: 6F Gold Glow Metallic 
Trim: CA Black All Vinyl, Comfortweave, Luxury Interior 
Date:
D.S.O: 13 New York 
Axle: 2 2.75:1, Conventional 
Trans: X FMX Automatic

Some of the plans I have are to completely restore it in a Restomod style, where I will make some changes from stock. I’d like to replace the FMX with a T5 to row through the gears, and pep the engine up as well. I would also like to add A/C to it. One the exterior, if possible I will not be replacing the beltline trim on the fenders and doors, considering I am missing parts of it, and not the biggest fan, though it might grow on me. I also want to add the honeycomb Mach 1 tail panel, and make the lights sequential. At some point I might also upgrade to a Naca style hood and change out the wheels.