New fuel tanks for the 67 and 73

I had already wanted to replace the fuel tank in the 67′, and when I get to the 73′, it will need one as well. Instead of a stock tank, I will be going the way of:



Why not go for a good tank that can have a fuel pump!

Different brakes for the 67′

When I upgraded the 67 to have front disc brakes, I found a set of 72′ Mustang disc. Well, with the 73′ I just bought, the PO removed the discs and threw on drums. Didn’t connect them up or anything, the one tie rod doesn’t even have a nut on it! Instead of buying new brakes for it, I am considering doing the Cobra brakes swap on the 67 and putting the 72 brake setup on the 73. Either that, or I will leave the drum setup on the 73 and do the Cobra conversion on it… decisions decisions…

$242 – Retrofit Kit:

$175 – Calipers:
$75 – Discs:
Brake Pads:

Some interesting posts and info on 73′ upgrades/replacements

Moving closer to welding day. I read my own thread again to make sure someone has not already suggested the diameter of the holes for plug welding. I can’t find this information. Should I drill/punch the pan with 1/4″, 5/16″ or 3/8″ holes for plug welding?
On the floor structural parts frame etc 5/16″
or use
Sheet metal (door skins, quarter panel rain gutter, etc )1/4″ is fine

If you get down to lower convertible pans (the ones that the torque plate bolts to) mine were ate up. I got 1965-70 pans and modified them to our specs. Mostly for the emergency brake cable routing purposes. Took about an hour to modify both. Came out great.

ooking good ! You know you can buy the upper outer part of the rear torque box..Listed as 65-70 Plate rear upper torque box..It’s what I used on the passenger side..wish I would have known before I made the drivers side. Almost perfect fit very little modification needed.

Other parts I’ll at some point need to look into for the 73′

Replacement Sheetmetal list for 73′

Since most of the floor is rusted away along with most of the sheet metal on parts, I figured I should start a list of what I will eventually need. Without first removing the panels, I will not know whether I need larger (if available panels) or not. Some panels I also might not need, but I will atleast have a comprehensive list when I am ready.

New car!

Just a few days ago I found and bought a 1973 Mustang Convertible. It’s in rough shape, but like AutoRestomod say, “it’s never a problem, it’s always a project!” It should be fun really breaking it down and replacing most of the sheet metal, and when finished have one of my favorite style Mustangs, a 73′! Before heading into work, I went ahead and checked a few things on it now that it is completely mine, titled and everything. The power top works great! Granted it’s only the frame right now… The turn signals work, the front running lights work (head lights don’t, didn’t have time to diag) the engine turns over, and if you put some gas in the carb will start. Before messing with the light switch, the one interior light that I could see would come on with the door open. So onto the options/specs of it!

  • 351 Cleveland
  • FMX transmission (X code on data plate)
  • 9″ Rear end with 2.75 gears (Axle code 2)
  • Gold Glow (Color code 6F on data plate, currently painted a dull yellow)
  • Black Knitted Vinyl (CA trim code on data plate, currently has no interior!)
  • Body: 76D
  • Color: 6F
  • Trim: CA
  • Trans: X
  • Axle: 2
  • DSO: 13

Warranty Number: 3F03H122861

Year: 3 1973 
Plant: F Dearborn, MI 
Body Series: 03 Convertible 
Engine: H 351 2v V8 
Unit: 122861 122861 

Miscellaneous Vehicle Data

Body: 76D Convertible 
Color: 6F Gold Glow Metallic 
Trim: CA Black All Vinyl, Comfortweave, Luxury Interior 
D.S.O: 13 New York 
Axle: 2 2.75:1, Conventional 
Trans: X FMX Automatic

Some of the plans I have are to completely restore it in a Restomod style, where I will make some changes from stock. I’d like to replace the FMX with a T5 to row through the gears, and pep the engine up as well. I would also like to add A/C to it. One the exterior, if possible I will not be replacing the beltline trim on the fenders and doors, considering I am missing parts of it, and not the biggest fan, though it might grow on me. I also want to add the honeycomb Mach 1 tail panel, and make the lights sequential. At some point I might also upgrade to a Naca style hood and change out the wheels.

Got some more done…

The dash is completely out now! It only ended up being an extra 8 spot welds to cut out, compared to the over 100 for the cowl. I now have unimpeded access to the interior firewall so that I can strip it down and epoxy prime. I will try to post some pictures of where I am at with it now when I get a chance. The next step is to fab up and weld in the replacement sheetmetal for the driver side lower cowl, and from there go ahead and tackle the floor pan replacements as well as the subframe connectors while the floor pans are out! I am still in the search for a storage facility, there is one just around the corner that if I can get a spot at would be perfect for what I need!

Restoration Plans

Since I am in the the process of restoring the Mustang, I figured I would flush out the plans…

  • Finish Lower Cowl Panel Patching
  • Order Upper Cowl Panel
  • Blast under fenders (on body not fenders)
  • Replace battery apron
  • Epoxy primer: 
    • Upper cowl
    • Lower cowl
    • Under fenders (on body not fenders) (Including battery apron)
      • Seam seal under fenders
  • Strip Roof and spray WHITE epoxy primer
  • Replace floor pans
  • Rust inhibitor-ize firewall/under dash/under lower cowl (in car)
  • Fix roof to fender (sail panel)
  • Fix misc. body rust (like trunk)
  • Fix drivers door
  • Strip interior including doors for paint
  • Epoxy all interior
  • Paint Interior?????? -Might be better to wait for everything to be epoxied and right before main paint
  • Fix hood
  • Fix Fenders
  • Remove rear window
  • Strip panel one at a time to metal and epoxy primer
    • On rear window and windshield, fix clips before painting
  • Renovate trunk
    • Strip it down
    • Epoxy primer it
    • Seam seal it
    • Remove gas tank (Possibly replace it)
  • Start Body Work
  • Paint Lime Gold Poly (Paint Code I )
  • Build 302 and rebuild T5
  • Be ready to swap out the I6 and swap in the 302 in one day

Got behind on updating the blog… So here’s an update!

Bought more stuff!
Got yet another engine! The one that I had pulled from the pull n pay didn’t work out. The cylinders were perfectly in the wear limit, however the crank and connecting rods were chewed to hell. After pricing out replacements, it went way past my budget, to the point that I would go with a 327/342 stroker instead of just 302 components. It would cost me about $1000 or so to go the stroker route, and where I would love to have a stoker of that size, I couldn’t justify the money on it.

I keep a search app searching on craigslist for 302’s and Tuesday I got a notification right before I left work for a 306 stroker and engine stand for $125! Talked to the guy and headed over after work and picked it up for a cool $120. It is still sitting in the back of the truck waiting to be setup in the garage, but I am hoping that the 3d engine is the charm! So far it looks like a 72′ block bored out with 040 pistons. The guy said it has a B303 cam, however until I can get to the cam, I am not sure if he was correct or not. The problem lies in that fact that this is NOT a roller block, which I understand you can slap in a roller cam and buy expensive roller-link lifters to use. Granted I have my eye on a set from ebay for under $200, but I am wondering if I would be better off selling the cam if it really is a b303, and buy a flat tappet setup…

In other buys, I also finally got new seats! I have been searching for a while for new seats, considering my seat, the bottom is just a layer of Gorilla Tape. I was originally up in the air about just redoing mine or buying different ones. After pricing it out, I figured I would rather buy “new” seats. I rather “new” because of the safety and convenience, such as headrests so if I was in a collision I wouldn’t have to worry about my head being thrown backwards getting whiplash, and also being able to recline the seat! The original seats you only had a single bolt that you can somewhat adjust the seat, but that’s it. It doesn’t stay up, so if you stop quick enough, the passenger seat will slam down (with no one in the seat that is). I managed to find a seat of 99′ Mustang black leather seats. $200 later, I had a real nice set, front and back. The front are easily modified to work with the original seat tracks, the back set will take some work, and at this point I am not sure if it will work. The bottom part will need some fabricating under the front of it, and the back will need some of the metal trimmed, but to the point where I am not sure if it will work.

I got the driver side seat tracks cleaned and greased up tonight, and also attached to the seat. I got the seat installed and holy cow, these seats are GREAT! So comfortable and the reclining is so nice!  I used the front hole and had to drill and tap for the back bolt. I was concerned when I first sat down and put the seat back to find it doesn’t seem to sit back as much as the original seat, however once I reclined the seat, it made everything perfect. It was much more comfortable, and I can sit much better, again thanks to the reclining feature. The other great thing about these seats, since they are from a Mustang, is that it has a latch on the back to put the seat up for getting in/out of the back seat!

More in buys, I bought a new welder! I tried to use my Harbor Freight 90 amp flux welder, but it just was not working out. Eastwood was having a sale on their 135 mig, so I bought it. I have been trying to use it with flux core wire, which works alright, but for doing the sheet metal work that I am doing I really needed to use it as a mig, with solid wire and shielding gas. After doing some research and calling a few places, I finally found a place rather local that would sell me a filled tank. I ended up getting a 40cf of the 75%/25% Argon mix. Tomorrow I will be working more on where the roof metals the rear fender and patching it up. So far it has been a real nice welder!

Yet another buy… I bought new floor pans for the driver and passenger side! Can you believe it was same price whether I went with the long or short pans, so of course I bought the long pans! Even if I don’t end up using all of it, I will still have extra sheet metal for other repairs.

In more maintenance news, I bought some 3M 8008 adhesive and went around the windshield and back window gasket and tried the best I could to get it down in there. Hopefully that will help with the leaking until I can fix the cowl and put in a new headliner.

In problems… I have some parasitic battery drain that has drained the battery twice now. I will need to track this down, I am not sure at the moment what the problem is, as the only thing non-original is the HEI ignition and the wideband. Neither of which should be the problem though… It could just be the battery too, even though it is less than a year old.

Parts list for the 302 build

Piston Ring set -$26-36
Cam bearings -$20
Main Bearings -$15 (or $40)
Rod Bearings -$12 (or $20)
Gasket Set – 40-60
Oil Pump/Pickup
Camshaft – 200-300
Crankshaft – 200
Timing Set – 30
Pistons – 160
Con Rods – 180
Piston pin –
Intake Stud Kit
Head Stud Kit
Valve Stem Seal
Pilot Bearing
Shaker Scoop
Engine Mounts
Water Pump
Radiator Hoses
Freeze Plug Kit
Harmonic Balancer -Needs to be 50oz inbalance but 3 bolt – 80
Distributor/Coil/Plug Wires

342 Stroker: